Mirjam Sophia Glessmer

Refraction of waves towards the beach

As you see from my parents’ attire and the lack of leaves on the trees, these pictures are not brand new. But still interesting: Do you see how the waves are bent towards the coast as they run into shallower water?

And can you believe I still have to look up which one is refraction and which one is diffraction to make sure, despite having a PhD in oceanography? They really should consider retracting that. I am pretty sure I “was instructed” (avoiding to say “learned”, since I clearly didn’t) about this in a lab during first year physics. On the other hand, I know where to look it up. Does that count?

And maybe it’ll help if I write it down once more:

Diffraction is what happens to waves behind slits or obstacles.

Refraction is what happens when waves run into shallower/deeper water (or into a different medium if we are talking about light waves) due to dispersion.

Does anyone know a nice “Eselsbrücke”/mnemonic/way to remember?

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