Phase and group velocities in deep and shallow water
When Tor came to visit me in GFI’s basement lab a couple of days ago, he told me about an experiment he had seen in Gothenburg in the seventies. So…
Tag: dispersion relation
Playing with roll wave animations
I love how powerful Powerpoint is, at the same time there surely is a way out there to create these kind of animations with a little less copy & pasting,…
I’m explaining your wave pictures: A #friendlywave from the Île d’Yeu, France
The whole #friendlywave thing (where I explain your wave picture) is starting off great! Here is one that reached my via my Twitter; link to thread here. What’s going on…
Roll waves, one of the more complicated #friendlywaves I’ve gotten over the years…
#friendlywave is the new hashtag I am currently establishing. Send me your picture of waves, I will do my best to explain what’s going on there! When it rains, it pours,…
Why are they so much slower than I thought? Observing the group velocity vs phase velocity of waves
Have you ever seen a speedboat drive past, looked at its wake moving torwards you, then gotten distracted, and when you look back a little while later been surprised that…
Wave watching: Refraction and diffraction of waves
A little more wave watching, today with a focus on how waves change direction when they run into shallow water. Let’s look at this beautiful wave and see what happens when…
Shallow water waves
Have you ever noticed how, if you are at a shallow beach, no matter how choppy waves are further offshore, everything becomes nice and orderly on the beach? Below you…
Watch the dispersion relation in action
Remember how we talked about how waves seem to propagate extremely slowly into that calm patch that occurs when a boat pulls away from a dock? Well, the other day…