Tag Archives: waves

Wave-watching

Do you know the feeling when you, even on the most beautiful of days, want to get out of the pretty parks as quickly as possible so you can finally see the water?

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Especially when it’s foggy?

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And it is so worth it, there is always something to see. For example on that day: what a nice field of shallow water waves!

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And what an awesome criss-crossing of waves being reflected on the sea wall on which I was standing when taking that picture.

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And how sad that this lake was frozen over! :-)

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Wavelength dependency of wave-object-interactions

Wavelength dependency of wave-object-interactions. What a title! :-) But that is exactly what I observed over the enormous timespan of three full minutes (as shown by the time stamps of my camera) when I went strolling along Kiel Fjord one Saturday morning.

First, I saw this old, overgrown tyre in a wave field that was dominated by small wind waves. We clearly see how they are diffracted around the tyre and how there is a nice interference pattern downwind of the tyre (to the left in the picture below).

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Tyre in the Kiel Fjord and diffraction of small wind waves around it, leading to a beautiful interference pattern to the left of the tyre

Also I quite like how there are absolutely no waves inside the tire, where the wind is shaded off by the tyre and the stuff growing on it.

Then, a really short while later, the wave field was dominated by longer waves running in from the distance. Below, we still see remnants of the old interference pattern to the left of the tyre, but also how the longer waves run around it. In the picture below, the wave crest that was broken up by the tyre is about to rejoin.

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And then, only an instant later, this is what the wave field looked like. Hardly and ripples caused by local wind, but many short waves. No real interaction between tyre and waves visible any more.

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Isn’t that fascinating? And it all happened within three minutes! :-)

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Surface films dampen waves

On Tuesday I talked about sea weed accumulating close to the sea wall in Kiel fjord, and I showed you the picture below.

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One thing that I found really interesting about that is how the floating sea weed dampens out all the waves. You can see it in the image above, bit it might be easier to see in the picture below: Can you see how there are a lot of ripples near the top of the image and none close to the sea wall at the bottom of the image?

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It’s not quite a surface film, yet its impact is the same.

Foam stripes parallel to the coast, take 2

I recently got a new comment on my blog post on foam stripes parallel to the coast, and since you guys hardly ever comment on my blog (I like getting your emails! Really! But why not comment on here? ;-)) it spiked my interest enough to look out for more foam stripes. So about a month ago, I saw this in Kiel: Yes! A foam stripe parallel to the coast!

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I’m actually pretty sure that they are there most of the time, at least when there is some wave action going on, but I just never noticed since they are so close to the sea wall and it’s easy to just look out over the fjord and never look down.

But again, as much as I tried, I could not see how the position of the stripe related to the wave field.

But now that I was intrigued, I went back the next morning to take a look. A lot less wind than the night before, and shorter waves. And what do we see?

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At first glance, there is no foam stripe, but instead there is a stripe where floating sea weed accumulated (indication of a convergence zone? Can you see it? Sorry about the bad picture).

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But then in other spots, there is a little bit of foam, too, where the sea weed accumulated. And this time I could actually see where it came from: That is the area where most of the wave breaking happens when reflected waves meet incoming waves. Mind, though, I could not observe that on previous occasions!

Plus, waves break when they meet the sea wall, and that creates more foam that sits between the foam stripe and the sea wall.

Since at that point I was really intrigued, I went back around lunch time the same day. And what do we see?

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Foam stripes are gone, but there is a lot more sea weed now! And all confined to a narrow stripe along the coast.

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Actually,  if we look really carefully, we can see that there still is a foam stripe parallel to the coast, but very very close to the sea wall now.

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And looking down the other direction, there are even two stripes with sea weed, and only the one closer to the coast also has foam on it. It gets weirder and weirder :-)

Anyway. I guess what we need for foam stripes is enough choppy wave action that waves break (waves alone are not enough as you can see in this post on standing waves which happens to talk about the exact same spot), because if waves weren’t breaking, where would the foam come from? Although sea weed could still accumulate, I guess?

I will investigate further. In the meanwhile, does anyone have any more ideas of what is going on? Do you now see those foam stripes everywhere, too? :-)

P.S.: Kiel peeps, btw, you probably know exactly when I took those pictures, since there is the Sweden ferry coming in on one and then the Norway ferry going out on the other… :-)

Swell and wind waves

Sometimes waves are very regular and mostly of the same length. Those are the ones that I usually talk about when I talk about interference of waves. But of course, other times, there are different kinds of waves with different histories and different lengths, and those do interfere, too. For example in the picture below, there are long swell waves caused by a distant storm, and then small wind waves on top of those, caused by a local breeze.

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The really long swell you can’t even see in the picture, because waves with a couple hundred meters wavelength and just a dozen or so centimeters height are just really hard to photograph… But you get the idea!

Watch the dispersion relation in action

Remember how we talked about how waves seem to propagate extremely slowly into that calm patch that occurs when a boat pulls away from a dock? Well, the other day I noticed that there is even more physics you can see when watching a similar situation: You see how long waves propagate much faster than short waves (that is for deep water waves, in shallow water the wave speed only depends on water depth, not on wave length)

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Here you see a formerly smooth patch of water where the Håkon Mosby was until a minute ago, and you see how long waves have already propagated into that smooth patch while shorter waves are everywhere in the choppy water around the smooth patch, but have yet to propagate into it. Now that I think of it I’ve seen this many times before, I just never noticed. It’s even visible in the video I posted with the other blog post.

And here is a video. Note how the long waves invade the smooth spot of water long before the shorter waves do:

Awesome wake of high speed catamaran

This post has been in the making for a very very long time. I have now decided to stop overthinking and just share the movie with you, because who wouldn’t want to watch the wake of a high speed catamaran? This is from my not-so-recent-anymore trip to Heligoland.

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Since I am too lazy to annotate, you will have to figure out by yourself what is happening when. But I give you this: It’s speeding, then slowing down, and then speeding up again. And in any case, it’s mesmerising to watch!

Waves transport energy, but not mass

Usually we see wave crests propagating, and since the eye can’t stop following them, it is easy to assume that they transport water with them instead of leaving the water put and just transporting energy. But here is an example of a situation where bubbles as tracers for water “parcels” show that, despite large waves passing, the water itself only moves up and down, and a little back and forth, but isn’t really transported away:

Of course there is some Stokes drift, but compared to the wave speed the speed associated with that is tiny…

Waves break when they reach a critical steepness

You can quite accurately predict when a wave is going to break. When it will break depends on its steepness, which depends on the slope that it is running up on. So due to the funny beach shape caused by the differential erosion on the upstream and downstream sides of groynes we can watch one and the same wave crest break several meters apart depending on the side of the groyne we look at. Kept me fascinated for the better part of the three days we spent in Hastings, and would have kept me entertained for a lot longer, I am sure, had I not had to go to a conference (and win a poster award there, so it was all worth it in the end ;-))

Here we see a wave breaking on the right side of the groyne, while at the left side the previous wave is still breaking and the one breaking on the right side hasn’t even developed a clear crest yet:

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It’s a lot easier to see in a movie. Have fun!

Waves change their direction because of changes in water depth

When waves run up a beach, they change their direction because for shallow water waves, phase speed depends on water depth (see this post for a nice little visualization for why the whole wave crest swings in towards the beach).

Unfortunately, it is really difficult to take good pictures of this phenomenon, but I tried:

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See below for an annotated version that shows the wave crests:

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It is easier to see in a movie, so here you go with a movie from that exact same spot: