Mirjam Sophia Glessmer

Waves transport energy, but not mass

Usually we see wave crests propagating, and since the eye can’t stop following them, it is easy to assume that they transport water with them instead of leaving the water put and just transporting energy. But here is an example of a situation where bubbles as tracers for water “parcels” show that, despite large waves passing, the water itself only moves up and down, and a little back and forth, but isn’t really transported away:

Of course there is some Stokes drift, but compared to the wave speed the speed associated with that is tiny…

Leave a Reply

    Share this post via

    Contact me!

    Subscribe to Blog via Email

    Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    Search "Adventures in Teaching and Oceanography"

    Archives

    Recent Posts