beach – Adventures in Oceanography and Teaching

Christina’s #FriendlyWaves from Panama!

mglessmer — Mon, 02 Mar 2020 19:02:27 +0000

Christina writes on Twitter: “#wavewatching from a plane, approaching #Panama. @Meermini, do you know what causes those regular ‘wrinkles’?” and how could I resist writing a blog post about what I think might be the explanation? Below is the picture Christina shared on Twitter. What I think we see here are basically two wave fields: […]

Source

Influence of wind and water depth on a wave field (or: a beach vacation in Dornumersiel)

mglessmer — Mon, 06 May 2019 13:05:42 +0000

I took the selfie above mainly to send to my mom from my vacation in Dornumersiel on the German North Sea coast. But then when looking through the hundreds of pictures I took that day, I realized that not only was my hair parted on the wrong side because it was so windy (ha!), the […]

Source

Same beach, different waves. Why?

mglessmer — Thu, 18 Apr 2019 06:15:33 +0000

Here is a puzzle for you. Walking along a beach, first, the waves looked like this: One wave breaking at a time. That’s the situation you also see in the foreground of the picture below, while in the background, a little further down the beach, something else starts happening. If we look closely at that […]

Source

Roll waves in the sand dunes? Observing erosion

mglessmer — Wed, 06 Mar 2019 11:09:36 +0000

On our trip to the west coast yesterday, I observed something really cool: Sand roll waves (I think!) in the sand dunes! But before I get to that, this is the setting on Sylt. A sandy beach opening up to the North Sea, that is separated from the land by sand dunes which are overgrown with […]

Source

Eddy on the beach

mglessmer — Fri, 22 Sep 2017 16:32:37 +0000

It’s bugging me that I don’t really understand what’s going on here or why… But look at how these eddies form on the beach right outside my window and for how long they persist!!

Source